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A chef for all seasons - Paul Torrance

Toronto Star - www.thestar.com

by JENNIFER BAIN
INNER CHEF

January 26, 2005



Portrait of Paul Torrance by Jim Ross for the Toronto Star
 
   

WHO: Paul Torrance, executive chef of the Breadalbane Inn's two restaurants — Maple Shade (fine dining) and the Fergusson Room (pub) — in Fergus, 487 St. Andrew St. W., 1-888-842-2825, www.breadalbaneinn.com.

BORN: Fergus, 1978.

SELECT C.V.: Torrance was 15 when he started dishwashing at the Schoolhouse Country Inn in Belwood. He quickly moved into salad making and banquet cooking before studying chef pre-employment and Italian culinary arts at George Brown College.

He has cooked in Guelph (Kaleidoscope), Newmarket (Trattoria La Spiga) and Port Severn (The Inn at Christie's Mill) and Scotland (78 St. Vincent and One Devonshire Garden's hotel restaurant, Amarylis). He started at the Breadalbane Inn in April.

SIGNATURE DISHES: At Maple Shade: Pot-Roasted Rump of Ontario Lamb, Local Game Stew With Roasted Shallots and Spaetzle, Roasted Canadian Scallops with an Apple Cider Curry Emulsion and Grilled Deer Valley Farm Venison with Lingonberry Glace de Viande.

At the Fergusson Room: Lemon-Crusted Salmon Fillet With Pesto-Cream Sauce, Haggis With Whiskey Cream Sauce, Braised Beef Tongue With Caper Cream Sauce, Shepherd's Pie, Beef & Ale Pie.

FAVOURITE INGREDIENT: "It might be a strange answer, but I'd say salt. `Taste everything' is my guiding principle. If you eat something that's not seasoned properly, it just won't taste at all."

SCOTTISH SOJOURNS: "My then-girlfriend was taking teacher's college in Glasgow, so I went with her. We had dinner out one night and at the end of the meal, I just asked if they were hiring and started the next day. That was at 78 St. Vincent."

ON FERGUS: "Fergus is a growing community, especially in the last two years. We've got five bars in town now."

ON THE BREADALBANE: "Before it was a large menu, so I cut it to six appetizers, six mains and desserts. You still have all the choice, but you can spend a lot more time on the quality. Now the menu is seasonal, so we have four every year. We do all our own butchery and all our own baking — breads, pastries and desserts."

ON BUTCHERING: "Last week we got a whole cow and we get a lot of other whole animals — elk, venison, lamb, beef, pig. We have so many menus, we have spots to use up the whole animal. It's nice with the pub side because it gives us ways to use up things with roast, ground beef and stews. We use band saws to cut the bones, make our own stocks and sauces."

COOKING PHILOSOPHY: "Up north (Port Severn), you couldn't get too outrageous with the food — same with here. I'm trying to keep it rather simple but still interesting."

COOKING LESSONS: "I always liked to eat. My mom taught me how to make macaroni-and-cheese when I was 4 or 5. If I cook at home, that's what I eat."

EXTRA-CURRICULAR: "I used to do Motocross, snowcross and amateur dirt bike, play hockey and baseball. These are things I like to do and used to do, but these days it's hard to find time. I don't eat out a whole lot, which is a shame. Really, we go to the other bars and hang out, and here it's a small town, so we know all the owners and the staff."

STAFF TRAINING: "I watch a bit of the Food Network. The shows are getting a lot better these days, like Iron Chef and Gordon Ramsay in Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares. I tape them and then all the guys in the kitchen come over and we watch them at my place. It's hard for guys who've never been out of Fergus — I'm trying to send our apprentice here over to Scotland this year."

KITCHEN TEMPERAMENT: "It's nice to have the seriousness and still have fun. Some places are too serious all the time, and some places are having too much fun all the time. It's hard to get a balance. I try to do stuff with the staff — we're trying to plan a trip to the slaughterhouse in Orangeville."

Read more stories from George Brown Graduates...

We encourage you to visit the Alumni Association.

To learn more, visit the George Brown College Alumni page.



Revised: January 27, 2005


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